Skincare

What to do with excess sebum?

All combinations of oily skin fear excess sebum. Although sebum is essential for the health and beauty of the skin, it is also very often the cause of facial blemishes when in excess. Whether the excess sebum is located in the T-zone or the entire face, experts advise you on the steps you should take to regulate your skin. Instructions for use for visibly clearer and more matte skin.

What is sebum used for?

Sebum is an essential element to maintain the skin’s hydration level and protect it from dryness. Composed of lipids, it contributes to the skin’s barrier function and protects it from aggressions, especially oxidation due to UV rays.

In autumn and winter, it thickens and forms a waterproof barrier against humidity and cold, while in spring and summer, the heat makes it more fluid and allows it to mix easily with perspiration: this is how it retains water in skin cells. Therefore, sebum is essential for the skin’s ecosystem, as long as it is of good quality and in the right quantity.

What is the cause of excess sebum?

It is not always easy to find the cause of excess sebum, but some skin types produce an excessive amount of sebum, which is known as hyper seborrhea. The result is glowing skin in the T-zone or all over the face, clogged pores, or the appearance of blackheads and pimples.

In adolescence, hyper seborrhea is usually due to a hormonal disorder, since during puberty the sebaceous glands are altered and produce a large amount of sebum. The main areas affected are the T-zone, chest, upper back, and scalp.

But excess sebum does not only affect adolescent skin: many adults skins also experience this skin problem. Most of the time it is due to daily aggressions such as pollution, smoking, stress, fatigue, a diet too rich in saturated fats and refined sugars, or an inadequate cosmetic routine. Overexposure to the sun can also cause hyper seborrhea.

How to combat excess sebum?

If your skin is prone to hyper seborrhea and blemishes, the first thing to do is avoid touching it as much as possible throughout the day. The more you touch your skin, the more you risk making the situation worse by stimulating the sebaceous glands.

Also, protect yourself from the sun’s rays: although the sun dries up pimples and gives the impression of an improvement in the first few days, in reality, sebum production will accelerate in the background. This is one of the reasons why the skin develops more blackheads and pimples when you return from vacation.

Lastly, choose a diet rich in vitamin E and zinc, two essential elements to protect the lipids contained in the sebum and prevent oxidation.

When the skin produces excess sebum, it is essential to adapt to the beauty routine. Choose non-comedogenic, non-aggressive (that respects the skin’s pH) and regulate bio care. Remove make-up every day with a cleansing oil. Contrary to popular belief, make-up remover oil is the key to caring for skin that suffers from hyper seborrhea. It will not make the skin oilier but, on the contrary, it will allow it to recover a healthy skin balance, as long as it is well chosen.

Next, remove hydrophilic molecules (such as sweat and dust, etc.) and oxygenate the skin with a cleanser that respects the skin barrier.

We tend to believe that hyper seborrheic skin should be treated with ultra-purifying care, but it’s a vicious circle: the more skin is treated with irritating products, the more sebum it will produce to defend itself.

By choosing a cleanser with a non-occlusive composition and using a gentle technique, you will be able to regulate the skin’s sebum production without drying it out and making it more sensitive.

Hydrate without clogging

All skin types, even oily skin that produces excess sebum, need to be hydrated. Morning and night, on cleansed skin, apply a non-clogging, mattifying moisturiser. If the skin tends to shine in the middle of the day (it is said that sebum production is greatest between 12 and 14 hours), this does not mean that you should dry it at all costs (you risk suffocating it), but simply that it is essential to hydrate it in another way.

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